Top three anti-aging products for the skin
The three ingredients that have been extensively evaluated in well-designed scientific studies and found effective in skin anti-aging are --
- Retinoids, especially tretinoin (retinoid acid), retinol, retinal
- Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic acid) serum, even more so when combined with vitamin E,
- Hyaluronic acid.
Retinoids, Vitamin C, and Hyaluronic Acid. Those are the three top ingredients of the anti-aging skincare that fight many signs of skin aging: lines, wrinkles, uneven skin tone, dehydration, loss of firmness and elasticity
There are several more skin anti-aging ingredients that are not as well studied or not as effective, but may still provide some anti-aging benefits: ceramides, niacinamide (vitamin B3), Vitamin E used on its own, polyphenols and flavonoids, peptides, and growth factors.
Retinoids (Vitamin A)
Topical retinoids are one of the most effective proven anti-aging topical ingredients for the skin.
Anti-aging benefits of the topical retinoids for the skin: decrease fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone
Vitamin A is an umbrella name for a group of fat-soluble substances, a category of retinoids.
The biologically active forms of the Vitamin A are retinol, retinal and retinoic acid. The most bioactive and the most effective form of all retinoids applied topically on the skin is Tretinoin (all trans-retinoic acid).
Retinoids can effectively penetrate the upper-most layer of the skin (stratum corneum) and reach epidermis, and, to a smaller extent, even dermis where they exert their anti-aging benefits.
The anti-aging effects of retinoids on skin occur through many mechanisms -
- Retinoids stimulate growth factors, which invigorate cells in epidermis and increase turnover of cells in epidermis, thus they also
- Reduce the transepidermal water loss (retinoids decrease skin dehydration);
- Retinoids stimulate angiogenesis (retinoids assist in creating new capillaries and that improves blood flow to the skin);
- Retinol and tretinoin activate production of the hyaluronic acid by the skin, demonstrated both in vitro and in vivo, in human studies;
- Retinoids slow down degradation of collagen, elastin, and proteoglycans by inhibiting metalloproteinases (MMPs). Metalloproteinases are enzymes that degrade extracellular matrix, collagen and elastin. MMPs are overexpressed in aging and under UV. Retinoids inhibit MMPs;
- Topically applied retinoids reduce skin pigmentation. They block transport of melanin to the cells in epidermis, facilitate a regular distribution of melanin that is already in epidermis, and decrease the activity of stimulated melanocytes;
- Retinoids remove degenerated elastin fibers;
- Finally, retinol and tretinoin activate fibroblasts to produce new collagen.
The three active forms of retinoids. Which one os the best?
Tretinoin (Retinoid Acid)
Studies show that retinoid acid is approximately 20 times more effective than retinol. It is also the most skin irritating of the three active retinoid forms. If your skin can tolerate tretinoin, that is the best choice. Tretinoin cream comes with concentrations of 0.025%, 0.05%, 0.1%.
Some people find that even the lowest strength tretinoin of 0.025% causes skin redness, itching or an on-going visible skin peeling. In such a case, the next best option is to switch to a product with retinol.
Retinol
The body first needs to convert retinol to retinoic acid (tretinoin) through a two-step process. Then it can exert its anti-aging action. For this reason, it is significantly less effective than tretinoin, and it is also less irritating.
Retinal
Retinal is the oxidized and not a very effective form of vitamin A. It is also the least irritating of the three and also very stable.
Retinal is used in creams and serums but provides only a minimal improvement in skin texture, wrinkles, and photo-aging.
Conclusion
The best option for a topical retinoid is a prescription strength tretinoin at a concentration your skin can tolerate. Retinol is the second option for people whose skin cannot tolerate tretinoin. Topical application of retinoids will decrease fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin hydration and skin tone, decrease skin pigmentation.
The best option for a topical retinoid is a prescription strength tretinoin at a concentration your skin can tolerate. Retinol is the second option for people whose skin cannot tolerate tretinoin. Topical application of retinoids will decrease fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin hydration and skin tone, decrease skin pigmentation.
Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid)
Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) is another pillar of the anti-aging skincare. Vitamin C is both an anti-oxidant and a cell regulator. As a cell regulator, vitamin C directly impacts collagen metabolism and stimulates production of elastin and collagen.
L-Ascorbic Acid is the most biologically active and well studied form of Vitamin C. L-Ascorbic acid is also a very unstable form.
The effective concentration is about 5% to 15%. Vitamin C is even more effective when used in combination with Vitamin E. The combination can be achieved by product layering on the face; vitamins C and E do not need to be in the same serum or cream.
L-Ascorbic Acid is the most biologically active and well studied form of Vitamin C. L-Ascorbic acid is also a very unstable form.
The effective concentration is about 5% to 15%. Vitamin C is even more effective when used in combination with Vitamin E. The combination can be achieved by product layering on the face; vitamins C and E do not need to be in the same serum or cream.
Anti-aging benefits of the topical Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) for the skin: improved skin tone, anti-wrinkle, slows and prevents photo aging
The anti-aging effects of vitamin C on the skin occur through many mechanisms -
- Photoprotection from the UV light that generates ROS (reactive oxygen species) in the skin. Excessive ROS lead to chains of reactions that damage the skin: cellular DNA damage and mutations, production of metalloprortienases (MMP) that break down collagen, generation of transcription factors that lead to the state of constant inflammation, damage of the cell membranes and proteins. Vitamin C as an anti-oxidant is effective against both UVA (320-400 nm) and UVB (290-320 nm).
- As an anti-oxidant, vitamin C may be up to four times more effective when combined with Vitamin E. The reason is that Vitamin C is water soluble and vitamin E is fat-soluble, thus the full protection for all skin compartments requires both. Vitamin C also assists in the regeneration of vitamin E.
- Vitamin C plays a key role in the synthesis of collagen. It positively impacts both the quantity and the quality of collagen. Through a cascade of reactions, vitamin C triggers collagen gene expression and transcription and stabilization of cross-linking between collagen molecules.
- Vitamin C is dipegementing the skin: removes brown spots and prevents their formation. It interrupts the key steps of melanogenesis, decreases formation of melanin.
- It is anti-inflammatory. It inhibits the biological molecule that would activate pro-inflammatory cytokines.
- In-vitro studies show that human skin cells exposed to vitamin C decrease their biological age (the study used epigenetic age tests (a type of biological age tests). Epigenetic age is measured based on the cell DNA methylation patterns)
The main challenge with the effective use of Vitamin C is that its most effective and bioactive form L-Ascorbic acid is rather stable (for years) if it is stored as a dry powder away from the sunlight. And L-Ascorbic Acid becomes very unstable when exposed to light or water, when it is used in creams and serums.
The majority of the creams and serums on the market use stabilized forms of Vitamin C. The price of that stability is lower effectiveness.
For this reason, one of the best options for a topical Vitamin C serum is a DIY that you can use within a week or two of making it.
A DIY Vitamin C serum is effective, will contain no harmful chemicals and preservatives, and very inexpensive.. Making your own Vitamin C serum is much easier than it may sound. A simple DIY Vitamin C serum recipe can be found here.
The majority of the creams and serums on the market use stabilized forms of Vitamin C. The price of that stability is lower effectiveness.
For this reason, one of the best options for a topical Vitamin C serum is a DIY that you can use within a week or two of making it.
A DIY Vitamin C serum is effective, will contain no harmful chemicals and preservatives, and very inexpensive.. Making your own Vitamin C serum is much easier than it may sound. A simple DIY Vitamin C serum recipe can be found here.
Conclusion
The best option for a vitamin C serum is a DIY with a 5-15% concentration of L-Ascorbic acid, and by far not because of the cost, but because of the maximum effectiveness and no harmful ingredients.
The best option for a vitamin C serum is a DIY with a 5-15% concentration of L-Ascorbic acid, and by far not because of the cost, but because of the maximum effectiveness and no harmful ingredients.
Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic Acid is a naturally occurring molecule produced by our body, an indispensable component of human skin. Concentration and production of Hyaluronic acid in our bodies, including skin, decrease as we age.
Hyaluronic Acid is an effective anti-aging skin product in its all three application:
Superficial injections of the hyaluronic acid provide more true anti-aging long-term benefits than just a topical Hyaluronic Acid serum, but those microinjections may be cost-prohibitive or undesirable because they involve needles and 2-4 days of downtime.
A topical hyaluronic acid serum is a 1% to 2% (maximum) of sodium hyaluronate dissolved in water. A "100% hyaluronic acid serum" is a misleading marketing claim because 100% hyaluronic acid is the powder of sodium hyaluronate that is not and should not be applied on the skin.
Injection of hyaluronic acid based fillers and micro injections of hyaluronic acid lead to an increase in natural production of hyaluronic acid and collagen and to activation of fibroblasts in the skin. No matter what the weight of sodium hyaluronate is used in a hyaluronic acid serum, a topical product will not be as effective as injections.
Nonetheless, multiple studies have demonstrated effectiveness of topical Hyaluronic Acid serum for:
Topical Hyaluronic Acid serum is very well tolerated and is highly unlikely to cause any skin irritation.
Hyaluronic Acid is an effective anti-aging skin product in its all three application:
- as an injectable filler,
- as a very superficial injection (the procedure can also be called biorevitalization, mesotherapy, microinjection, superficial microneedling) in the very upper skin layers, and
- as a topical skincare.
Superficial injections of the hyaluronic acid provide more true anti-aging long-term benefits than just a topical Hyaluronic Acid serum, but those microinjections may be cost-prohibitive or undesirable because they involve needles and 2-4 days of downtime.
A topical hyaluronic acid serum is a 1% to 2% (maximum) of sodium hyaluronate dissolved in water. A "100% hyaluronic acid serum" is a misleading marketing claim because 100% hyaluronic acid is the powder of sodium hyaluronate that is not and should not be applied on the skin.
Injection of hyaluronic acid based fillers and micro injections of hyaluronic acid lead to an increase in natural production of hyaluronic acid and collagen and to activation of fibroblasts in the skin. No matter what the weight of sodium hyaluronate is used in a hyaluronic acid serum, a topical product will not be as effective as injections.
Nonetheless, multiple studies have demonstrated effectiveness of topical Hyaluronic Acid serum for:
- Skin Hydration
- Skin Elasticity
- Fine lines
- Wrinkles
Topical Hyaluronic Acid serum is very well tolerated and is highly unlikely to cause any skin irritation.
Anti-aging benefits of the topical hyaluronic acid serum for the skin: improved skin hydration, decreased lines, wrinkles, and folds
The anti-aging effects of hyaluronic acid on skin come from two major mechanisms --
- Hyaluronic acid is involved in numerous cell interactions and skin physiological functions. It is necessary for the effectiveness of those interactions and functions. Supplementing hyaluronic acid produced in the skin with a topical product delays aging by supporting natural skin functions and maintenance
- Hyaluronic Acid attracts and retains water. This property of hyaluronic acid provides visibly younger looking skin
Regular hyaluronic acid molecules are very large and cannot penetrate skin at all, even though they will help retain water and improve skin hydration and plumpness.
In response to this drawback, ingredient manufacturers now also offer hyaluronic acid (sodium hyaluronate that is to be dissolved in water) of lower molecular weight: low weight, super low weight, ultra low weight. Using a hyaluronic acid serum that is made from sodium hyaluronate of several molecular weights will provide maximum benefits.
Conclusion
Hyaluronic Acid for skin rejuvenation is more effective when delivered to the skin with microinjections than as a topical serum.
Nonetheless, a topical Hyaluronic Acid serum provides both visible and some long-term anti-aging benefits for the skin.
The best option for a Hyaluronic Acid Serum is any well-rated and inexpensive hyaluronic acid serum at concentration 1% and up to maximum 2% that contains sodium hyaluronates of several molecular weights. If cost is a consideration, a Hyaluronic Acid serum is very easy to make at home as DIY.
Hyaluronic Acid for skin rejuvenation is more effective when delivered to the skin with microinjections than as a topical serum.
Nonetheless, a topical Hyaluronic Acid serum provides both visible and some long-term anti-aging benefits for the skin.
The best option for a Hyaluronic Acid Serum is any well-rated and inexpensive hyaluronic acid serum at concentration 1% and up to maximum 2% that contains sodium hyaluronates of several molecular weights. If cost is a consideration, a Hyaluronic Acid serum is very easy to make at home as DIY.
The most effective anti-aging skin care routine will include a combination of:
Skincare products can and often are layered -- one product is applied right after another
- a DIY-Vitamin C serum, possibly combined with vitamin E (can be used at two separate products),
- a tretinoin or retinol cream if tretinoin is not well tolerated,
- a Hyaluronic acid serum made of sodium hyaluronates of different molecular weights and/or micro-injections of hyaluronic acid.
Skincare products can and often are layered -- one product is applied right after another
The best anti-aging skincare ingredients. Summary
Other anti-aging skincare ingredients
Ceramides
Ceramides in skincare improve skin hydration and plumpness by decreasing trans-epidermal water loss.
Naicinamide (vitamin B3)
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) regulates cell metabolism and regeneration, and it can used in topical creams and serums at approximately 5% concentration. Limited studies show that it may improve skin pigmentation and elasticity.
Vitamin E (α-tocopherol)
Vitamin E (α-tocopherol) is a fat-soluble anti-oxidant (provides photoprotection), it also has anti-inflammatory effects and helps maintaining skin hydration and smoothness. It is used at concentrations from 2% to 20%. The effects are not as strong as with vitamins C. The best option is to use it together with a topical vitamin C product.
Botanicals: Polyphenols and flavonoids
Polyphenols and flavonoids are cell regulators; they stimulate production of collagen and elastin by directly impacting collagen metabolism.
Peptides
Polypeptides or oligopeptides are composed of amino acids and can imitate a peptide sequence of molecules such as collagen or elastin. Just like botanicals, peptides are cell regulators and can improve natural production of collagen and elastin.
Growth factors
The impact of growth factors on the skin has been mostly studied in skin wound healing. The relevant application of growth factors in skin rejuvenation is that they improve results of skin trauma based rejuvenation procedures such as microneedling or laser resurfacing.
They may provide some benefits when used as a topical product. Having said that, using a topical retinoid is a scientifically proven way to stimulate the skin to produce its own growth factors.
Ceramides in skincare improve skin hydration and plumpness by decreasing trans-epidermal water loss.
Naicinamide (vitamin B3)
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) regulates cell metabolism and regeneration, and it can used in topical creams and serums at approximately 5% concentration. Limited studies show that it may improve skin pigmentation and elasticity.
Vitamin E (α-tocopherol)
Vitamin E (α-tocopherol) is a fat-soluble anti-oxidant (provides photoprotection), it also has anti-inflammatory effects and helps maintaining skin hydration and smoothness. It is used at concentrations from 2% to 20%. The effects are not as strong as with vitamins C. The best option is to use it together with a topical vitamin C product.
Botanicals: Polyphenols and flavonoids
Polyphenols and flavonoids are cell regulators; they stimulate production of collagen and elastin by directly impacting collagen metabolism.
Peptides
Polypeptides or oligopeptides are composed of amino acids and can imitate a peptide sequence of molecules such as collagen or elastin. Just like botanicals, peptides are cell regulators and can improve natural production of collagen and elastin.
Growth factors
The impact of growth factors on the skin has been mostly studied in skin wound healing. The relevant application of growth factors in skin rejuvenation is that they improve results of skin trauma based rejuvenation procedures such as microneedling or laser resurfacing.
They may provide some benefits when used as a topical product. Having said that, using a topical retinoid is a scientifically proven way to stimulate the skin to produce its own growth factors.
Al-Niaimi F, Chiang NYZ. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017;10(7):14-17.
Draelos ZD, Diaz I, Namkoong J, Wu J, Boyd T. Efficacy Evaluation of a Topical Hyaluronic Acid Serum in Facial Photoaging. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb). 2021;11(4):1385-1394. doi:10.1007/s13555-021-00566-0
Ganceviciene R, Liakou AI, Theodoridis A, Makrantonaki E, Zouboulis CC. Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermatoendocrinol. 2012;4(3):308-319. doi:10.4161/derm.22804
Gupta RC, Lall R, Srivastava A, Sinha A. Hyaluronic Acid: Molecular Mechanisms and Therapeutic Trajectory. Front Vet Sci. 2019;6:192. Published 2019 Jun 25. doi:10.3389/fvets.2019.00192
Juncan AM, Moisă DG, Santini A, et al. Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals. Molecules. 2021;26(15):4429. Published 2021 Jul 22. doi:10.3390/molecules26154429
Li WH, Wong HK, Serrano J, Randhawa M, Kaur S, Southall MD, Parsa R. Topical stabilized retinol treatment induces the expression of HAS genes and HA production in human skin in vitro and in vivo. Arch Dermatol Res. 2017 May;309(4):275-283. doi: 10.1007/s00403-017-1723-6.
Papakonstantinou E, Roth M, Karakiulakis G. Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermatoendocrinol. 2012;4(3):253-258. doi:10.4161/derm.21923
Pavicic T, Gauglitz GG, Lersch P, Schwach-Abdellaoui K, Malle B, Korting HC, Farwick M. Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. J Drugs Dermatol. 2011 Sep;10(9):990-1000. PMID: 22052267.
Spada F, Barnes TM, Greive KA. Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin's own natural moisturizing systems. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2018;11:491-497. Published 2018 Oct 15. doi:10.2147/CCID.S177697
Walker K, Basehore BM, Goyal A, et al. Hyaluronic Acid. [Updated 2021 Nov 15]. In: StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2022 Jan-. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK482440/
Zasada M, Budzisz E. Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Postepy Dermatol Alergol. 2019;36(4):392-397. doi:10.5114/ada.2019.87443
Draelos ZD, Diaz I, Namkoong J, Wu J, Boyd T. Efficacy Evaluation of a Topical Hyaluronic Acid Serum in Facial Photoaging. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb). 2021;11(4):1385-1394. doi:10.1007/s13555-021-00566-0
Ganceviciene R, Liakou AI, Theodoridis A, Makrantonaki E, Zouboulis CC. Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermatoendocrinol. 2012;4(3):308-319. doi:10.4161/derm.22804
Gupta RC, Lall R, Srivastava A, Sinha A. Hyaluronic Acid: Molecular Mechanisms and Therapeutic Trajectory. Front Vet Sci. 2019;6:192. Published 2019 Jun 25. doi:10.3389/fvets.2019.00192
Juncan AM, Moisă DG, Santini A, et al. Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals. Molecules. 2021;26(15):4429. Published 2021 Jul 22. doi:10.3390/molecules26154429
Li WH, Wong HK, Serrano J, Randhawa M, Kaur S, Southall MD, Parsa R. Topical stabilized retinol treatment induces the expression of HAS genes and HA production in human skin in vitro and in vivo. Arch Dermatol Res. 2017 May;309(4):275-283. doi: 10.1007/s00403-017-1723-6.
Papakonstantinou E, Roth M, Karakiulakis G. Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermatoendocrinol. 2012;4(3):253-258. doi:10.4161/derm.21923
Pavicic T, Gauglitz GG, Lersch P, Schwach-Abdellaoui K, Malle B, Korting HC, Farwick M. Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. J Drugs Dermatol. 2011 Sep;10(9):990-1000. PMID: 22052267.
Spada F, Barnes TM, Greive KA. Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin's own natural moisturizing systems. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2018;11:491-497. Published 2018 Oct 15. doi:10.2147/CCID.S177697
Walker K, Basehore BM, Goyal A, et al. Hyaluronic Acid. [Updated 2021 Nov 15]. In: StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2022 Jan-. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK482440/
Zasada M, Budzisz E. Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Postepy Dermatol Alergol. 2019;36(4):392-397. doi:10.5114/ada.2019.87443